Chincoteague ponies swimming back to their home on Assateague Island, Chincoteague Island, Virginia.
At 4:30 in the morning, the Chincoteague waterfront is already filling with people carrying lawn chairs and cameras, determined to secure a good view of the five minutes they have traveled hundreds of miles to see.
Hours later, when the wild ponies finally enter the Assateague Channel guided by the Saltwater Cowboys, those without a coveted waterfront spot may see little more than moving specks in the distance.
My wife and I were among them. We had traveled hundreds of miles to Virginia to finally see the famous Pony Swim, only to find ourselves watching from several hundred feet away—or over the shoulders of thousands of other spectators.
Planning a Trip Around the Pony Swim
Although we now call New Mexico home, my wife and I both grew up in Baltimore, where tales of the Chincoteague ponies were part of the region’s lore. She had wanted to see the Pony Swim for years.
Each summer, we travel back East for a steamed crab feast at her cousin’s home in Cambridge, Maryland. This year, with Chincoteague already on our side of the country, we decided it was finally time to go.
The origins of Chincoteague’s ponies mix history with legend. Folklore traces them to horses that survived a Spanish shipwreck centuries ago, though Pony Penning itself grew from the practice of livestock owners rounding up free-roaming herds to claim and brand them.
The modern tradition took shape in the 1920s, when the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company turned Pony Penning into a fundraiser for much-needed firefighting equipment. The annual swim followed in 1925 and later found an international audience through Marguerite Henry’s 1947 novel, “Misty of Chincoteague,” a childhood favorite of my wife’s.
Staying on Chincoteague during Pony Penning week can be expensive. When we looked, hotels near the event were running $450 or more per night. We stayed about 35 miles away at an Econo Lodge in Princess Anne, Maryland, for $89. The trade-off was a 30- to 40-minute drive; the savings were more than worth it.
Chincoteague itself is a charming town filled with coffee shops, old-fashioned ice cream parlors, antique stores, and plenty of places to rent bicycles or scooters. Exploring on two wheels is an easy way to take in the island’s streets and waterfront at a leisurely pace.
Eventually, though, everyone’s attention turns to the waterfront and the main event: the Pony Swim. Parking near the viewing area is prohibited, so the Town of Chincoteague and Virginia State Police operate shuttles from designated lots at local schools and community centers. With thousands of people arriving at once, we expected chaos. Instead, the entire operation was surprisingly stress-free.
What You Actually See From Shore
Once off the shuttle, the crowd streams toward the waterfront. Unless you arrived before dawn to claim a prime spot, however, the view is not quite what you might expect. From where we stood, the Coast Guard and leisure boats were easy enough to see. The ponies were little more than moving specks across the water, roughly seven or eight football fields away.
Fortunately—or perhaps unfortunately—the town has installed a giant video screen that provides close-up camera coverage of the swim. While it’s certainly the best way to see the action in detail, there’s something a bit disappointing about traveling hundreds of miles to witness the famous Pony Swim only to watch much of it on an outdoor television.
Fortunately, that’s only the beginning of the experience. Once the ponies complete their crossing, the legendary Saltwater Cowboys herd them through the streets of Chincoteague in a festive parade to the holding pens, where they remain until the end of the week. There, visitors have the opportunity to see the horses up close before they are herded back across the channel to Assateague Island on Friday morning.
The Best Part Comes After the Swim
It is at this point that the real magic begins. For us, this was the best part of the experience. Away from the waterfront crowds, we could finally see the ponies up close. Young foals stayed close to their mothers as the herd grazed on hay in the holding pens, and there was no need for binoculars or a video screen.
We could linger here, watching the horses at our own pace. Nearby, vendors sold Pony Penning souvenirs, and local artist Kelly Cosby displayed her photographs of the Chincoteague ponies.
In the days following the Pony Swim, many of the foals are auctioned, with proceeds benefiting the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company and helping fund the care of the herd. After watching the foals stay so close to their mothers in the holding pens, seeing them separated is a bit heartbreaking. But the auction is also an important part of Pony Penning, helping manage the size of the herd on Assateague Island.
There is one more reason to stick around until the end of the week. On Friday, the legendary Saltwater Cowboys return the remaining ponies across the channel to Assateague Island. By then, most of the crowds have departed, giving those who stay a far less congested—and often much closer—view of the horses than is possible during Wednesday’s famous swim.
We came to Chincoteague because my wife had wanted to see the Pony Swim for years. And yes, we can finally say we saw it—even if much of our best view came courtesy of a giant video screen.
But the five minutes in the water turned out to be only a small part of the experience. Watching the ponies parade through town, seeing the foals alongside their mothers and finally getting close enough to appreciate the herd without binoculars are the moments we will remember most.
If You Go:
The Chincoteague Pony Swim takes place on the last Wednesday in July, with the foal auction on Thursday and the return swim to Assateague Island on Friday.
Parking is not permitted at the main viewing area. Free shuttles transport visitors from designated parking areas to Veterans Memorial Park, followed by a walk to the pony landing site. Arrive well before the announced swim window if you want a prime viewing spot.
For a less crowded experience, consider staying through Friday to watch the remaining ponies swim back to Assateague Island.
Check the Chincoteague Chamber of Commerce and Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company websites for the current year’s schedule, shuttle maps and event information.
Richard Atkins is an award-winning travel, photojournalist, concert pianist and composer, playwright, screenwriter and actor who can be reached at: rcratkins@att.net.